Thursday, June 30, 2016

Nambung National Park and Wanagarren Nature Reserve, WA: Moon or Another Planet?

We had to go.  The Pinnacles Desert in the Nambung National Park, as described by Fudor's travel book, is a unique unusual geographical area; described as "an eerie moonscape where pale yellow limestone formations loom as high as 15 feet. Formed 200,000 years ago, the pinnacles are one of the world's most spectacular karst landscapes created by the dissolving action of water on exposed limestone beds that formed under the dissolving action of water on exposed limestone beds that formed under windblown sand dunes."

Seeking this unusual experience, we set off to drive the125 miles north of Perth, to explore these extraordinary pinnacles.  We arrived at Nambung Park prior to sunset, in order to capture the best light for photographs.  These photos, with my novice photography skills, do not do these Pinnaceles justice.  Yet another skill to improve--but a fun hobby to learn it's techniques.

We wished for more time to explore this park, but it our usual manner of trying to, "do it all", we didn't get to spend as much time as the area warrants.  I would recommend, to other travelers, to plan three to four hours for full exploration; as there is a scenic loop drive, a Pinnacles Desert Discovery Center with geology interpretative displays, and hours to walk through the sand among the thousands of pinnacles--especially if you are desiring to challenge your photography skills with unusual geographic landscape photos.

After spending the night in the pretty coastal town of Cervantes, with yet again beautiful beaches, we headed back to Perth, via the scenic Indian Ocean highway.  Purely by happenstance, as we looked for a rest area, we stumbled upon Wanagarren Nature Reserve and within it is a section locals call "The Wedge."  The most immense stretch of white sand I have ever seen--or likely ever again will see in my life time was an unexpected surprise.  Awesome!  Once again we wished we had more time to fully explore this area--so much to see and not enough time. But we sure are trying to give it our best go!  It was a reminder to keep our "bucket list" focus, which for us is not merely touring to see the sights.
The "Wedge" in Wanagarren Nature Reserve
Our number one bucket list item is to be engaged in an activity, which in some manner contributes to the improvement of the lives of people. Actually, I think it is for most people as well. However having this sole focus can be a hindrance to actually doing other things on your bucket list. Life is all about balance--isn't it? But we all need breaks in our daily routines, in order to renew our energies to be able to carry on our number one bucket list item---whatever that may be---, which is why I think it is not only unfortunate but proves contrary to work efficiency when people don't take vacations.

Sadly, many Americans are fearful of workplace consequences for taking time to renew themselves. And we wonder why--not only America but the world is suffering a mental health crisis?  How does poor mental health of employees fit into work effectiveness? So here's a cheer for nurturing mental health, that I might dare say Australia does a much better job of doing than America. So grab your calendar and starting planning--life only so many years and days and---time is a ticking....
"Ticking Time" at the "Wedge"

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Margaret River Region, WA: Beach Strolling, Surfing, Sipping Wine and Savory Gourmet Restrarants!

Wow! It is hard to imagine a place on earth, which has as much to offer all within miles of each other as the Margaret River Region, in the state of Western Australia.  A Cape to Cape coastal walking trail with white sand, from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin, with beckoning turquoise ocean waves, adrenaline-junkie surfers to admire as they negotiate some of the 75 surf regional breaks, that can be strolled on various cliff-top or beach trails. Do you suppose this is what heaven offers?  I hope so, as additionally Australia is full of friendly, helpful people, who also play nice!

Smiths Beach, Western Australia
Smiths Beach, also near Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, as said by Fodor's Travel is "in a state of extraordinary beaches, this one rates high on the list." A pleasant surprise was the lack of people on this amazing beach as depicted in this photo.

A particularly enjoyable coastal trail walk is near the Ellenbrook beach.  This soft sand path to Graceland is two hours at a moderate pace. We have learned the hard way signage and trail descriptions in Australia are minimal.  I recommend asking locals about the location and condition of walking trails in the area before embarking. If Australia is looking for a way to boost their economy---they could employ people to work on signage improvements--as from our experience the lack of clear signs seems to be a common and frustrating puzzle for non-locals.

We didn't anticipate playing in the ocean as the trail (according to the inadequate map description) was on a cliff above the ocean, which didn't reveal any beach access, so we didn't pack any swim wear. In Australia, the saying, "never wear underwear with holes" has a different twist then the usual reason, "you may have an accident requiring emergency treatment--and how embarrassing to have underwear with holes"---for with all of Australia's beckoning beaches, you should always be prepared to play in the waves---and wear underwear suited to ocean swimming.  The waves of the ocean were calling all to come join the fun---so we accepted the invitation--in our ambulance ride underwear!
The afternoons are particularly suited to enjoy one of the 140 plus wineries in the region, which is frequently compared to France's Bordeaux region.  Many also have gourmet restaurants with menu options loaded with local produce. The vineyard's natural forest settings, along with manicured flower gardens are the prefect site to renew one's spirits while sipping wine or coffee. Most wine cellars are open from 10 am to 5 pm, but food might only be served until 2 or 3 pm. In major tourist areas dinner may be served until 9 pm or occasionally even until 10 pm,  however, in most rural towns dinner is only served from 6 pm to 8 pm. It is worth checking the serving hours, as stragglers may find yourself staring at a closed sign on the restaurant door. And, "nuts" may not only be your exclamation but as well your only dinner.

As Americans, as we travel we still struggle to remember Australia's meal window of time cultural phenomena; even despite suffering numerous times the consequences of our forgetfulness, and having only nuts to eat.  This cultural factor seems to be due to the high cost of labor for cooks and food servers whose average respectively wage is from $20 to $15 an hour and is not dependent on tips. Their minimum wage is $15 per hour with the exception for youth workers up until the age of 21 whose minimum wage is $7.50.   It appears except for high tourist regions the demand is not high enough to hire workers to supply food service. A nice aspect of Australia is the price listed-- is the price charged---no surprises with extra fees due to taxes or services.
                                                                              
Sand walking trail
During our travels, rarely do we find an area we would return to, mostly due to our desire to seek out new and different regions to explore, however, the Margaret River Region is one we would happily return to. This region offers endless adventures with it's numerous beaches to explore and a lifetime of wineries to discover. Now that is a slice of heaven here on earth!


Friday, February 12, 2016

Swim with Sea Lions and Dolphins at Baird Bay, SA

As a kid, I never imagined I would swim with Sea Lions and dolphins--in Australia!  It is worthy of putting on your bucket list.

We joined Baird Bay Eco-Experience, for a half-day boat tour, located on the Eyre Peninsula in South Australia. For us a large part of travel enjoyment is interacting and doing activities with people from around the world. So we were thrilled that our boat had 14 diverse international people, 6 from Germany, 3 from China, 3 from Australia, and us as the only Americans. 

The boat ride to the island with the seals only took about 20 minutes.  The tide was down, so the Sea Lions were content sleeping and frolicking with each other.  It was magical to watch them so closely from the boat---no binoculars needed.  They put on quite a show, so we didn't mind that it took awhile for them to enter the water and share swimming within feet of us in the sea.  Amazing indeed!

Next we cruised to a cove that habitually has pods of dolphins I felt I should pinch myself as a reminder that this experience was for real--and not in a movie, as we watched the dolphin pod swim dance around our boat.  Prior to our plopping into the water to join in on the dance, we were instructed to NOT swim after the dolphins, but "just put your head equipped with your snorkel in the water and float-- allow the dolphins to swim to you."   Their hello greetings were within feet of us and our hearts were captured by their friendly and beautiful nature. Who said dogs are man's best friend?  Wrong! I want a dolphin for my nature friend.



The day before we had driven to Point Labatt, which is the only mainland colony of Sea Lions in Australia--here binoculars would be beneficial-- to view them.  We were glad we had done this prior to our up close swimming experience with the Sea Lions.

The pelicans in this photo are common along the coast of South Australia, and a major reason why Coorong National Park, SA is a wetland area of world standing. We enjoyed watching them waddle walk on the beach, as we refueled with lunch and terrific coffee at Eco-Experience beach and ocean view cafe. Relaxing and savory moments!

The Streaky Bay District, where we stayed for three days, has 360 km of coastline and a population of only 2,200. There are three scenic loop drives, all abundant with trails, beach lookouts, sand dunes and extraordinary photo opportunities. Since our nature is to not to miss out on anything, of course we drove all of them and enjoyed the different aspects of each drive. The drives only take one to two hours each, depending on how long you linger in nature.  Anyone driving across the famed "Nullabor", note a small detour to this region will be enjoyed.
                                                                       
Enjoying long walks on magnificent white beaches that just go on and on.........
We stayed another three nights at Sceale Bay in a VBRO, which was 20 miles from Streaky Bay, on a hillside above the most amazing stretch of white beach, that went for over 10 km (6 miles) ...... we couldn't see the end of the beach with our naked eye.  Needless to say we had daily long walks on the beach..........and the only person the entire three days at the beach was a man on a four wheeler running his dog.  Lucky for us we came well stocked to cook our own food, as there are no concessionary services for 20 miles. The District's travel website certainly had it right of the area when they stated, "Want to find the perfect place to "Just Be"?"
                                                                        
Murphy's Haystacks is the main landmark on the predominately flat interior of Streaky Bay District. Hundreds of photographers take pictures of these geologic wonders and they grace many a photo calendars. Legend has it over a hundred years ago, they received their name when a stagecoach passing from a distance, by Murphy's farm had a passenger who was a prominent agricultural expert, who made the droll comment “the farmer must have harrowed his land to produce such an impressive abundance of hay”.  Thereafter, the mail coach driver amused his passengers by referring to the distant inselbergs as ‘Murphys Haystacks’.

The outstanding restaurants, coastal biking trails and chatting with Australian fishermen hoping to have luck with a catch of Blue Swimmer Crabs or King George Whiting were our highlights of the township of Streaky Bay. Other local fish available at restaurants and a local fish market are Snapper, oysters and abalone. Besides fishing, drivers of the district's economy are wheat and barley farming as well as sheep. This experience has me wondering how small towns back home might share their unique experiences and lives with travelers passing through--who might linger if we invited them to participate in authentic area experiences.                          
Streaky Bay Coastal Biking Trail: Beautiful 7km Paved One Way Trail

One of the best reason to travel to South Australia is the solitude and the low number of tourists compared to many other places and beaches of Australia. Okay, you are right--perhaps there is a contradiction in that statement. But in my defense, many of us travelers don't view ourselves as tourists and simply desire area experiences to enjoy and appreciate---in the same manner the locals do.

In part, the low numbers of tourists may be because of the distance to travel to South Australia. I suppose Australia's long travel distances should be anticipated and therefore not surprising, as after all it is a huge country continent, but nonetheless it is hard to wrap your head around the vastness of Australia.  Consider carving out time to travel here, as it's wildlife, solitude beach walking and friendly people are travel highlights. And best of all, the local people willingly converse with you not as a tourist but as.............well a person.  Isn't that refreshing and worth the extra effort to travel here?  Hands down it's a yes for us

Wondrous Waves to Watch or Surf in Streaky Bay District

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Australia Day January 26: A Match to America's Fourth of July?


Australia Day is celebrated on January 26, and is considered Australia's founding day.  It marks the anniversary of the 1788 arrival of British Ships, near the current location of Sydney, at Port Jackson, New South Wales.  In 1818, January 26 was declared a legal holiday, marking the 30th anniversary of the British settlement in Australia.

The first penal colony had over 800 British prisoners who were sentenced to serve time at this far away colony's of Britain.  The settlement was on the verge of starvation for several years, as the soil was poor and the prisoners did not know the techniques of farming.  It wasn't until 1792, that the colony appeared to be sustainable.
 
The continent was officially christened “Australia” in 1824. The name “Australia” was first suggested by Captain Matthew Flinders, an English navigator and surveyor. “Australia” means “southern” in Latin. Flinders was the first explorer to sail entirely around Australia and identify it as a continent.  So appropriately, there are numerous landmarks in Australia that are named after him. 
Over the next 80 years, the population steadily increased, and five additional self-governing colonies were created. On January 1, 1901, all six colonies united to form the Commonwealth of Australia. There currently are six States, New South Wales, Queensland, Victoria, Tasmania, South Australia and Western Australia, and of note the people of the Northern Territory voted to remain a Territory and not become a State.    
                                             
Australian Flag
The main symbols of Australia Day are the symbols of Australia. These include the Australian national flag, with its representations of the Union Jack, the Commonwealth Star and the five stars of the Southern Cross. 

Other symbols are the opal, which is the national gemstone, and include the Golden Wattle, which is the national floral emblem.
When in flower, the golden wattle displays the national color of green and gold. It is ideally suited to withstand Australia's droughts, winds and bushfires. The resilience of wattle represents the spirit of the Australian people(sound familiar to American's people?).  Golden wattle is a symbol of unity as it grows everywhere in Australia. Indigenous peoples used the tannin from the bark as an antiseptic.
Golden Wattle Australia's National Floral Emblem
On Australia Day there are many activities at all three levels of Australian government, which are national, state and local districts. Foremost, many people become citizens of Australia on Australia Day at Citizenship Ceremonies across the nation. They receive their citizen certificate from the Prime Minister. The lawns of Parliament House in Canberra (national capitol) is the site of this prestigious event.  It was interesting to watch this event on national T.V.

These ceremonies also have awards, which go to four individuals who have made outstanding achievements at the national, state and local level. National award recipients enjoy tea with the Prime Minister and lunch with the Governor General. Then the honors are conducted from a podium in front of Parliament House.  The award categories are:
  • Australian of the Year
  • Senior Australian of the Year
  • Young Australian of the Year
  • Australia’s Local Hero               
Local ceremonies and activities are different for each district. In the small town of Cowell, where we attended Australia Day, the local activities included a free breakfast of bacon, sausage, eggs, toast--of course with Vegemite, all cooked and served by the district council members.  How's that for serving your township?  What nice role modeling!  

The national anthem "Advance Australia Fair" opened the award ceremonies (I felt a bit stupid when I automatically put my hand over my heart---well give me a break--- habits are automatic). The town's CEO and mayor presented individuals with these awards along with a description of the community service they had done.  Cowell had an additional award category entitled, "Event of the Year."  The Lions Club organization was the recipient.   Once a month they sponsor a community market, as a fundraiser for their club, where local crafts, food items, products and produce are sold.

After Australia Day morning ceremonies most people spend the rest of the day relaxing with friends and family over a "barbie" (barbecue), which can take place at one of Australia's magnificent beaches (there are so many to choose from), boats, backyards or home patios.  It still seems odd to me that January is summer--especially when I hear of all of the snow the Northern Hemisphere,has had this year-- and that play most frequently is on the beach or on a boat.  Since Australia Day is during the last week of summer school holidays, just like America's Fourth of July, many take the week off or at least make a long weekend of all of the festivities.  Plus many communities have evening fireworks to celebrate the holiday.  Sound familiarYes, because just as it is--all people all around the world--are all proud of their heritage and country.
Beaches, beaches everywhere! Just one of the many beaches Australian's can enjoy with family and friends.
After the award ceremony, we were invited to join the Lion's club president, wife, friends, Cowell CEO and his wife for a boat ride to a nearby island for a lunch "barbie".  Mike was on-call so he declined, as it is a 30 minutes distance to the island.  The job requires that the doctor be within 45 minutes of the hospital--but that amount of time is not in his comfort range.

I could not resist the invitation and joined this delightful group. We had lively conversations on Australian culture and their other world travels.  As most everybody in Australia travels internationally--but that is for another blog post.  But oh my, did I have a great time zipping along in their boat on the ocean.  Any time I can--I will always say yes to play time on the water.

Next week, we are off to the small town of Streaky Bay, in the southwestern part of South Australia, for a week of "off duty."  My next post will be about this place, as it is rumored to be one of the best beach towns in South Australia.